planting bunching onion seeds Ishikura Long Bunching Onion Seeds – Japanese Scallion – Jerra's Garden
SKU: 24425729529
planting bunching onion seeds

planting bunching onion seeds Ishikura Long Bunching Onion Seeds – Japanese Scallion – Jerra's Garden

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planting bunching onion seeds Ishikura Long Bunching Onion Seeds – Japanese Scallion – Jerra's GardenIshikura Long Japanese Bunching Onion Seeds Heirloom Green Onion Variety With Long, Tender Stalks Allium fistulosum Listing is for 1 packet of minimum 30 seeds Bring the authentic flavors of Japan to your garden with Ishikura Long Japanese Bunching Onions! This exceptional variety is known for its extra long, tender white stalks and mild, sweet onion flavor, perfect for soups, stir fries, salads, and traditional Japanese dishes. Unlike regular green

Ishikura Long Japanese Bunching Onion Seeds – Heirloom Green Onion Variety With Long, Tender Stalks
Allium fistulosum
Listing is for 1 packet of minimum 30 seeds

Bring the authentic flavors of Japan to your garden with Ishikura Long Japanese Bunching Onions! This exceptional variety is known for its extra-long, tender white stalks and mild, sweet onion flavor, perfect for soups, stir-fries, salads, and traditional Japanese dishes. Unlike regular green onions, Ishikura Long onions do not form bulbs but instead grow thick, straight, and upright, making them an excellent choice for continuous harvesting. These hardy, fast-growing bunching onions thrive in a variety of climates and can be grown year-round in mild regions.

Growing Tips: Start seeds indoors or sow directly in well-draining soil with full sun. For longer, blanched stalks, mound soil around the base as they grow to encourage extra white, tender stems. Keep soil consistently moist and fertilize occasionally for vigorous growth. These onions can also be successively planted for a steady supply of fresh green onions all season long.

Follow me on social media for more gardening information and tips. Instagram, YouTube, and TikTok: jerrasgarden. 

Ideal Growing Conditions

Sun: 8 hours of full sun

Water: Let the soil dry out a little in-between watering

Fertilizer: Regular applications of an organic granular fertilizer, like Espoma Garden-Tone, or blood meal, will help promote lush leaf growth.

When & How To Sow Seeds: Sow seeds densely in 4 inch containers, 72 cell seed trays or flats and pull them apart when its time to transplant. Transplant them when seedlings are 4-5 inches tall. Space them 3 inches apart or mix them throughout your garden and veggie crops to deter pests. Can also direct sow the seeds after your last spring frost date or in fall when you plant your fall garden. 

Zones 9-12: Onions are a cool weather crop. Sow seeds in July and transplant once they are big enough (usually in 2-3 months). Grow them thru fall, winter, and spring.

Zones 8 and below: Onions grow better in spring. Sow seeds 5-8 weeks before your last spring frost date and transplant once all danger of frost has passed. 

Please watch my YouTube video on how to sow onion seeds for complete instructions: https://youtu.be/g35dF8aVDhw

Germination: 7-21 days Onions are slow to germinate

Days To Maturity: 80 days after transplanting

How & When To Harvest: Can harvest the greens at any time. I like to harvest a few green leaves at a time instead of pulling out the whole stalk so it will continue growing/producing.

Common Diseases: The most common disease when growing green bunching onions is downy mildew. This fungal disease thrives in cool, damp conditions, causing pale green or yellow patches on leaves that progress to grayish-purple mold, eventually leading to leaf dieback and reduced growth. Avoid overhead watering and ensure proper spacing for good air circulation. Spray with 1 cup of hydrogen peroxide, which will kill the fungus, clean, and disinfect the leaves. 

Common Pests: The most common pests on green bunching onions are onion thrips and onion leaf miners. Thrips are tiny insects that feed on sap, causing silvery streaks and stunted growth, while leaf miners are flies whose larvae burrow into leaves, creating damaging tunnels. Treat thrips with an organic insecticidal soap or spinosad.  Leaf miners for the most part is just cosmetic damage, and are actually not so bad that it affects the plants. You can remove leaves that have their signature white trail markings if you would like.  

Do I have a YouTube video tutorial on how to grow this? Not yet

Additional Tips/Information: N/A

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