SKU: 73553315297
traditional welsh dress

traditional welsh dress Genniewren Designs Modern Welsh Costume 18 inch Doll Clothes Pattern

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Description

traditional welsh dress Genniewren Designs Modern Welsh Costume 18 inch Doll Clothes PatternThis pattern, by Genniewren Designs, contains everything you need to make a modern style Welsh costume: blouse, skirt, apron, bonnet, Welsh hat, and shawl. The blouse has lace applied to the front, gathered lace at the collar, a center back fastening and long sleeves with elasticized ruffles at the wrist. The skirt features unpressed pleats and a hip yoke with an elasticized waist for easy fit. Instructions are included for applying a straight or

This pattern, by Genniewren Designs, contains everything you need to make a modern-style Welsh costume: blouse, skirt, apron, bonnet, Welsh hat, and shawl.

  • The blouse has lace applied to the front, gathered lace at the collar, a center back fastening and long sleeves with elasticized ruffles at the wrist. 
  • The skirt features unpressed pleats and a hip yoke with an elasticized waist for easy fit. Instructions are included for applying a straight or chevron band of ribbon to the skirt if desired. 
  • The rectangular apron is gathered at the waist and ties at the back. Sometimes you will see shorter, curved edge aprons (waitress-style) on purchased costumes, but the rectangular shape is more traditional and is required for school dancing. 
  • The shawl is a simple square of fabric, with fringed edges. The most common type of fabric used for modern Welsh costumes is red and black plaid, but Paisley print shawls are also worn in some areas. 
  • The bonnet is cut in one piece. Lace is applied to the front edge that surrounds the face. The ruffle is created by attaching narrow elastic a little distance from the curved hem edge. Narrow ribbons are used as ties. 
  • The Welsh hat is made from felt and is fully lined. It is based on the modern conical style of Welsh hat. This hat is sewn together rather than molded. The hat can be stiffened with a card, template plastic or heavyweight interfacing. Lace can be applied to the underside of the brim of the Welsh hat, or the bonnet can be worn under the hat. Either is acceptable. Some schools wear just the bonnet for dancing, others wear just the hat, so it is largely a matter of personal choice whether you apply the lace or wear the bonnet under the hat. 


The style of Welsh costume you can make with this pattern is based on the clothing worn by school girls on St David's day.

So, whether she wants to explore her Welsh heritage, or to enjoy a little school dancing on St David's day, your 18 inch doll is sure to love this charming ensemble.

FABRIC RECOMMENDATIONS:

  • Blouse: lightweight woven cotton or poly-cotton blends, such as batiste, lawn, chambray, or shirting-weight fabrics.
  • Skirt: medium-weight woven cotton fabric, such as quilter's cotton, gingham, broadcloth, poplin, percale or sheeting fabrics.
  • Apron: lightweight woven cotton or poly-cotton blends, such as batiste, lawn, chambray, or shirting-weight fabrics. Traditionally the aprons were made from homespun fabrics, gingham is often used as a substitute for dance school uniforms.
  • Shawl: light to medium-weight woven fabric with a soft drape, such as lawn, chambray, or challis. Checkered fabric such as gingham or houndstooth is traditional in some parts of Wales, and Paisley style fabric is traditional in others.
  • Bonnet: cream, ivory or white lightweight woven cotton or poly-cotton, such as batiste or lawn.
  • Welsh Hat: Felt. Acrylic craft felt is acceptable but may not be as hard-wearing as felt with a high wool content.  A medium weight woven fabric is suitable for the lining.  For the stiffener, you will need home dec heavy weight interfacing, card or template plastic.

Supplies Needed:

Blouse:
- A quarter of a yard (fat quarter 18" x 22" or from the bolt),
- 9" of 3/8" wide pre-gathered lace,
- 9" of small guipure lace daisy trim, or other lace as desired,
- 9" of 1/8" (3mm) wide elastic,
- four snaps or 4" of ¼" wide hook and loop tape (both sides),
- four buttons (optional – for decoration only).

Skirt:
- A third of a yard of plain or striped fabric cut from the bolt,
- 10" x 3/8" wide flat elastic,
- Ribbon or other trim (optional – for decoration only).

Apron:
- A quarter of a yard of plain or gingham fabric, cut from the bolt. (If you prefer to use a fat quarter you will need to join the fabric for the waist ties),
- Trims such as ribbon or flat lace if desired.

Shawl:
- minimum 13" x 13" square of fabric.

Bonnet:
- One fat quarter (18" x 22") of fabric, OR one-third of a yard cut from the bolt
- 7" of 1/8" wide flat elastic,
- half a yard of 3/8" wide flat lace,
- half a yard of 1/8" wide ribbon,

Welsh Hat:
- 12" x 22" of good quality felt (at least 1mm thick),
- 8" x 14" woven fabric for the hat lining,
- 8" x 22" Quilter's template plastic, medium weight cardstock, or home dec style heavyweight interfacing,
- 24" of 1" wide ribbon (white or black are traditional colors),
- 1 yard of 1"-1¼" wide pre-gathered lace or two yards of the same width flat lace.
 

 

Skill Level:  Intermediate 

What You Get: One 72 page sewing pattern that you digitally download as a PDF file so you can start your project immediately! The PDF sewing pattern provides full color step-by-step illustrated instructions and full-size pattern pieces.  Each pattern contains a Summary of Instructions section so you can print out just the text version if desired to save on printer ink!  A PDF reader is required to view and print the files (example: Adobe Reader or Preview for MAC). The download link is received immediately after the transaction is complete. Print copies are NOT available.

Download, Print, Sew!

*Creating a customer account will ensure that you have the ability to access your purchased (and free) files at any time.

For detailed information and answers to the most common questions, be sure to read the Terms of Use and FAQ's related to the doll clothes patterns sold at Pixie Faire.

Pixie Faire and the designers featured are not affiliated with American Girl®
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SKU: 73553315297

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Elton Smith
Chelsea, US
★★★★★ 5
Forget Adventurer 5M , This is the true and easy to use beginner machine
Set name: Ender 3 V3 SE
This is my 3rd 3d printer. Once I spent about 45 minutes assembling it has been printing nonstop since the amazon driver dropped it off, these are the best for reliability and perfect for hobbyists. It is not the quickest machine out there, but it makes up for it with a quality print good price as well.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 25, 2026
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hearmeout
Los Angeles, US
★★★★★ 4
One - Month Review
Set name: Ender 3 V3 SE, Set name: Ender 3 V3 SE
First - I wrote a out of the box review - I do not know if this review will replace the old review or compliment it. Just in case this review replaces the old review - I will repeat a few of the important points from the previous review. I must also say it helps a great deal if you are already familiar with Ender because about 80% or more of the machine is built the same way as the older models. If this is your first Ender - read the instructions and check to make sure you have all the parts. Placing the parts where you can easily tear open the bags and not having to search for a part cuts down the assembly time. While the assembled printer takes up a small footprint - give yourself room to work. This is my 3rd printer - my first one I made from scratch. It took about 2 weeks to get it assembled and another two weeks to get it to print properly. Most of that time was spent modifying the Martin software so it would run my machine! My second one was an Ender V1. It took me about 90 minutes to assemble and about 30 minutes to get it to work. Over the years - I modified it to the point it was virtually impossible to tell the difference between it and a V3. I replaced it because a least one of the motors was going bad and I did not want to do the repairs. I picked this printer for 3 reasons 1) it was on sale, 2) I am now wheelchair bound and needed a printer that did not require too much assembly, and 3) I had worked with Ender before and knew how they worked. I was able to keep some of the old parts from the old machine (but threw most away). Everything was packaged well, but the small parts are in plastic bags that you have to tear or cut open - so be careful you do not lose any parts! There are only three parts to be assembled. They are the base, the frame, and the screen. I had no trouble getting the machine together - did have some trouble getting it to work. I was never able to reach customer service which ranged between "Who are you Kidding?" and "Did you really expect any?" I did some internet searching (there is lots of stuff out there - many are good YouTube videos). I found I needed to do an update - it got a bit complicated here. Part of the update was done using the hidden slot on the LEFT side of the removable screen and part was done using a SD card on the LEFT side of the Unit. (Ender does NOT tell you this on their website!). I was already angry when I tried their slicer and it did NOT work - after not being able to get customer service again. I deleted their slicer and used my Cura. After doing a few prints using Cura (which works fine) a couple days later, I reinstalled their slicer and did some troubleshooting - I found I had a setting wrong. I use both Cura and their slicer now because of the differences. Each one has some features the other one lacks. One example: The Cura has a large number of preset configurations, and it is easy to save a custom configuration. The Creality titles the g-code with a filename that includes the estimate print time. I tried customer service and actually someone! They did give me the manual settings for generic Pla - when I asked how to save those settings they send me to a useless link. I will research how to save one day - but will use my Cura for generic pla until then. What I like about the machine. 1} While it is nosier (a trade-off for higher speed) - it is still much quieter than the original Ender I had before modifications. 2)The new ribbon and print head are a big improvement. The filament is easier to change, and you can easily make prints with different colors! I do not miss the bowden tube and individual wires at all! 3) I like to put my prints on a card. The old machine used a micro-SD card - and I quicky bought an adapter! The new machine takes regular SD cards and no adapter is needed! 4) I really like the automatic leveling feature. There have been times I have spent hours getting my manual table set the way I wanted. So far - it has worked great. I have only made about 50 prints - so I cannot tell you how reliable it is in long term use. 5) The quality of prints is much better than my old machine. I am not sure whether this due to being a better machine or the stepper motor needing replacement. What I do not like: 1) The SD card has to be put into its slot upside down. 2) The controls and the SD card slot are all on the left side of the printer. I think putting the computer connection and the SD card would have been much better on the front of the machine. 3) Updating is like putting up a Christmas tree. The firmware is done with a hidden C connector on the left side of the detachable screen (this is like putting up a Christmas tree). Fine details on display etc. are put in using the SD card (this is like putting the lights on the tree). Once you figure out what goes where - it is the easiest printer to update I have had. 4. This one is a mixed bag. I do not give their customer service good marks - but the fact I found solutions on the internet was a good thing.
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Reviewed in the United States on April 5, 2026
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Sid Hubbs
Los Angeles, US
★★★★★ 5
The K2 SE is a great entry level printer. Don't let the naysayers get you down!
Set name: K2 SE
I bought the K2 SE because it was inexpensive and I wanted to get into 3D printing. I had a Creality laser engraver that worked well, so I figured I'd go with the brand I knew. I bought the additional enclosure because I was planning to use this in the garage where my wood shop is, and I wanted to keep some dust out. I have been pushing this thing pretty hard for three months now and it has not so much as looked at me cross eyed. It takes everything I throw at it. The quality seems to be there, as nothing is wearing out. I have a little superlube oil and grease to keep up the maintenance, and I suspect any failures people report have been on unmaintained machines. If you're the type that drives your car without changing the oil, 3D printing is not for you. A quick note on 3D printing, for the uninitiated. When you see the one and two star reviews for the K2 SE, make sure you read why the reviewer is leaving the low rating. "Doesn't come with filament" - if you're not buying a combo with filament, none of the printers on the market come with filament. "Makes bubbles and pops when printing" - this is wet filament and not the fault of the printer (dry your filament). 3D printing is not a set it and forget it proposition, at least not at first. It requires a little skill (that can be built), a little knowledge (the U of Tube), and a little patience while you learn how to use the machine. Now for the machine itself... The print quality surprised me as a first time 3D printer user. I have purchased 3D printed items in the past and the lines were not something that impressed me. The K2 SE prints pretty much the same quality as the higher end Bambu Labs printers. The speed is all I could ask for, and I have fed this thing all kinds of PLA, PETG and TPU from Creality, Sunlu, Polymaker and AnyCubic without a problem. Any issues I have had have been the fault of the operator (me) not knowing I had to dry PETG before I use it. I have a Creality filament dryer now and dry my PETG right out of the package, then store it in an airtight container with dessicant. I have two printers running dried PETG sitting behind me right now and they're doing great. If I have a single complaint about the K2 SE, it's the bed size. At 215 x 220 it's smaller than the industry "standard" of 256 x 256, and if you get some of the larger prints that are designed for a "standard" sized printer, they won't fit the build plate. But I knew that coming into this, because they advertise the size right up front. Overall, I'm happy with the K2 SE. It was an excellent entry level printer and I have learned a lot from using it. I may even buy a second to add to my growing farm.
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Reviewed in the United States on May 20, 2026
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ReluctantConsumer
Waukegan, US
★★★★★ 5
Creality K1 SE - Prints great with stock settings - needs a side spool mount
Set name: K2 SE, Set name: K2 SE
I bought the Creality K1 SE a little over a week ago. I had an Ender 3 S1 before this printer. The K1 SE is so, so much easier to print with right out of the box! I definitely recommend it. It's a good way to get the improvements that were built into Creality's K1C, but at a nicer price. Plus, you can install your own version of Klipper if you want. I've printed 10 or so things in PLA and PETG, and I haven't had any failed prints. The automatic bed leveling has just worked. I have not had any problems with bed adhesion. On the Ender 3 S1, I only used a textured PEI plate, but the smooth build plate on the K1 SE works fine. The extruder cooling fan also seems ok for what I've printed so far. I printed an overhang test and the 75 degree overhang looks fine, but it had trouble at 80 degrees. The bridging test looked ok. (The longest bridge was only 25 mm on that test however.) I've put the printer in a soft-sided enclosure that I had used for my old Ender 3 S1. (It's easy to find similar encolsures.) The LEDs on the K1 SE are bright enough to see inside which is something that I was concerned about before I purchased. However, this enclosure makes it difficult to access the back of the printer where the filament spool is mounted, so I designed a mount that clamps onto the side-bar - see the pictures. The files are on Printables - "Creality K1 SE Side Spool Mount".
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Reviewed in the United States on January 21, 2025
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Geoff
Carnegie, US
★★★★★ 3
Almost Good
Set name: K2 SE
The nozzle cleaning is completely ineffective. The wiper pushes material up the sides of the nozzle and melts onto the nozzle. The result is the nozzle leaves burnt debris on the prints. The calibration before each print only probes 5 points on the bed and the results are not satisfactory, with the nozzle being variously too close or too far from the bed. To adjust the z offset you have to go through several menus and the machine seems to not remember where you set it last time. Print quality is good except for VFAs. Part cooling fan is very loud at full speed.
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Reviewed in the United States on February 5, 2026

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